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Cool Climate Chardonnay
By Zoltan Szabo
September 28, 2011
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Zoltan Szabo, Matt Kramer and John Szabo take in the Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration. Photo by Bernard Stramwasser
The inaugural International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4c) took place recently in Niagara, with 56 producers from all over the world in attendance, pouring some fabulous cool climate Chardonnay. Thirty Ontario wineries started the International Cool Climate Chardonnay Association – a not-for-profit group devoted to this much-maligned varietal. The i4c featured the finest examples of cool climate Chardonnay in the world at participating Niagara wineries hosting tutored tastings, educational seminars and food and wine pairings over a glorious weekend in July.
Wine Spectator’s world-renowned Matt Kramer took part in the weekend festivities, stating that Ontario is among the top New World regions in the world for producing Chardonnay. To kick- start the festivities a band played while a river of Chardonnay kept pace with plenty of oysters, pork belly and other luscious foods at Flat Rock Cellars.
The i4c was the initiative of Harald Thiel, vigneron and proprietor of the Hidden Bench, based in Beamsville, Ont., made possible with the support of Wine Country of Ontario, Vintages, Green Belt and a bevy of Ontario and international wineries.
From blanc de blancs Champagne and sparkling wines made entirely from Chardonnay, to still wines and Chardonnay Icewine, there was a Chardonnay for every taste throughout the weekend’s highly successful event series.
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There is no question in my mind about world-class Chardonnay being produced across Ontario, in the Niagara Peninsula, Prince Edward County and Lake Erie North Shore. There are clear climatic and soil type similarities between some of these local areas and Burgundy, France.
What makes Ontario’s cool climate Chardonnays special is their uncompromising seam of refreshing acidity and sublime minerality. These Chardonnays are highly food-friendly; think of acidity as a flavour enhancer, just like salt when it comes to cooking. Chefs use a pinch of it to bring out flavours; think of a squeeze of citrus in vinaigrette, or drizzled over a filet of fresh water fish. Also, Ontario’s cool climate Chardonnays are not high in alcohol, so therefore can be enjoyed on their own, not to mention that you can eat more, too, while sipping them. Remember, alcohol contains glycerol and is very filling, creating |
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an implicitly sweet taste sensation. High alcohol wines make you lose your appetite. Many Ontario vignerons apply a judicious oak treatment that gives Ontario Chardonnays additional aroma, flavour and textural complexity, yet maintaining a great overall balance.
Chef Ryan Crawford’s outstanding local, homemade charcuterie offerings paired well with Chardonnays poured at an event at Coyote’s Run winery. Crawford is the executive chef of Stone Road Grille, in Niagara-on-the-Lake. He also plated the wonderful prosciutto by local Mario Pingue, all matching superbly well with the Chardonnays.
Look for these local producers and their cool climate Chardonnays: Tawse Winery, Coyote’s Run Estate Winery, Pearl Morissette Winery, Thomas Bachelder, Le Clos Jordanne, Hidden Bench Vineyards, Pondview Estate Winery, Closson Chase, Henry of Pelham, 13th Street Winery, Southbrook Winery, Flat Rock Cellars and Cave Spring Cellars.
For more information on next year’s event visit: www.coolchardonnay.org.
See also:
About the author
Sommelier Zoltan Szabo is a hospitality consultant offering wine sourcing and staff training services to restaurants. To learn more about Szabo, check out www.zoltanszabo.org or follow him on Twitter @zoltanszabo.
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