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means place called, and refers to a plot of land with topographic and historic particularity. These two terms have been used almost with no differentiation in meaning; however, some slight variations could be noticed in the wines. In many cases, there are several lieux-dits within a single climat, or one climat that covers only a part of a lieu-dit. There are several thousand climats in Burgundy alone.
More than half of the total wine production of Burgundy’s five main regions (Chablis, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais) is white; the rest of production is 32 per cent red and Rosé, and less than 10 per cent is Crémant de Bourgogne.
Almost half of Burgundy’s wine production is exported. In 2010 Canada was the fifth largest importer of Burgundy wines by value and seventh by volume.
Here’s a list of some of the wineries I have visited. Most have representation in Ontario via Vintages of the LCBO, or are available by the case from private importing agencies.
Domaine Michael Magnien
Cultivating grapes over a total of 33 hectares of (mostly) east- facing vineyards, 19 hectares are Magnien’s own land. Ninety-seven per cent of their total production (500,000 bottles per year) is red. Frederic Magnien, the son, is head winemaker; nothing but the best Allier barriques by renowned Francois Frerres are used here. The winery is working toward biodynamic certification in the near future.
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| Louis Latour |
2009 Chambolle – Musigny Premier Cru ‘Charmes’ – F. Magnien
Fleshy yet maintaining a delicate, “feminine” aspect, with red and black cherry, floral and mineral notes; medium weight with a plush texture and really soft tannins coming on its long finish.
2009 Clos de Vougeot – F. Magnien
Tasting notes: pure, spicy and exotic with a velvet texture, gentle tannins, it will just get better with some bottle age.
2009 Chambertin – Clos de Beze – F. Magnien
Tasting notes: complex, fuller, masculine, very impressive, needs time to flesh out, lay it down in a peaceful cellar for a few years.
Maison Louis Latour
Located in Aloxe-Corton, the winemaker is Boris Champy, formerly at Dominus in Napa Valley. The cellar underneath the maison is breathtaking, with some spooky dark corners and 150,000 bottles, some dating back as far as 1870. Champy himself took me into the world-renowned Corton vineyard and conducted a mini-tasting vertical of the famed Corton-Charlemagne from 2006 to 2009, including a barrel sample of the 2010. These are world-class wines in every way.
Tasting notes: I favour the 2008 vintage, rich and intense with floral-roses accents, crisp acids and an incredibly long nutty-mineral finish.
2009 Meursault Premier Cru ‘Chateau de Blagny’
Is striking, with pink grapefruit and some lactose overtones, clean oak toast and mineral notes, an excellent mouthful spiked by lots of vivid acids.
Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson
This domaine is in Saint-Romain, family owned, independent wine growers producing 7,000 cases of wine per year from estate-owned vines. I liked the whites better here, although the reds are also very good, fresh and delicate with a lighter character.
2009 Saint-Romain Sous La Velle
There’s lemon balm, citrus, apple, spicy cilantro and mineral notes. Medium bodied with wonderful freshness and a bit of toast reflex over the pleasant, long finish; delicious.
2007 Corton-Charlemagne Le Charlemagne
This wine is full, rich and powerful, yet maintains elegance, uplifted freshness and mineral finish here; needs time to cellar.
Domaine Gille
In the commune of Comblanchien in Cote de Nuits. They have been grape growers since 1570 with 10 hectares of their own land. They produce 5,000 cases per year 80 per cent of that is red wine. They use concrete vats and natural yeasts only, with no filtering. There are some really good (value) wines here, I sampled many of the 2010, in barrel, yet showing very good to excellent potential already. Look for reds coming from Nuits-St.- Georges, Chambolle-Musigny or the Corton appellations for reds, Rully for an excellent premier cru Rabourcu white. Also noteworthy is the 2010 Bourgogne Aligote with clean, fresh, peach, apple and mineral notes, medium-weight, with a succulent citrus finish. Very food-friendly, and a great value from this winery.
Maison Albert Bichot
Headquartered in Beaune and in possession of 100 hectares of its own vineyard land (the average size of an estate in Burgundy is about eight hectares) of which 65 hectares are in Chablis, the rest across the Cote d’Or; this is a totally family owned winery, with four vinification centres, in Chablis, Beaune, Nuits-St.-Georges and Pommard.
2008 Chablis ‘Moutonne’ – Domaine Long-Depaquit
Moutonne is the eighth unofficial climat of grand cru Chablis, positioned right in between Vaudesir and Les Preusses; the domaine is a monopole property of Maison Albert Bichot.
Moutonne covers a small parcel of a little over two hectares of vineyard. This is one of my favourite Chablis, with aromas of baked apples, hazelnut, white blossoms and minerals; it’s full bodied, intense and so very impressive, with a minutes-long exotic white-fleshed fruits and mineral finish. This wine needs decanting, or cellar it for two to three years, although it can age for up to a couple of decades.
2009 Corton ‘Clos des Marechaudes’ – Domaine du Pavillon
This is a two-hectare clos. The wine is made using 40 per cent new barriques and large casks; the bouquet sports aromas of red and black wild berries, red plum, graphite and wet clay-limestone. It is full-bodied and complex with an exotic spice trait over the finish. This wine is truly impressive, it will age for decades. There are less than 3,000 bottles produced. The holidays are just around the corner and if you find yourself in a generous mood, try getting a few bottles of this wine, you will certainly thank me for the recommendation.
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About the author
Sommelier Zoltan Szabo is a hospitality consultant offering wine sourcing and staff training services to restaurants. To learn more about Szabo, check out www.zoltanszabo.org or follow him on Twitter @zoltanszabo.
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